Khardung La

Not any more, and probably never quite as high as claimed. The famous BRO signboard at the top says 18,380 ft (5,602 m), but modern GPS and SRTM surveys measure the pass at around 5,359 m (17,582 ft). Several newer roads, including Umling La in eastern Ladakh (~5,798 m), are now higher. That said, Khardung La remains the most iconic high pass in India and the classic gateway ride into Nubra Valley.

Yes. Khardung La lies on the route to Nubra Valley, which requires an Inner Line Permit (ILP) for Indian citizens, obtainable online at lahdclehpermit.in or through any travel agent in Leh. Foreign nationals need a Protected Area Permit (PAP), issued only through registered tour operators in Leh. Carry several photocopies, as checkpoints at South Pullu keep a copy.

May to September is the best window, with clear roads, open cafes, and stable weather. The Border Roads Organisation (BRO) works to keep the pass open for most of the year since it is the lifeline to Nubra and Siachen, but heavy snowfall can close it for days at a time between November and April. Always check road status in Leh before setting out.

Keep your stop short — 10 to 20 minutes at most. At around 5,359 m the air holds roughly half the oxygen of sea level, and lingering increases the risk of acute mountain sickness (AMS), even for fit travellers. Take your photos, sip some tea, and descend. If you feel a headache, dizziness, or nausea, head down towards Leh or North Pullu immediately.

The top of the pass is about 39 km from Leh, and the drive typically takes around 2 hours each way. The road climbs steadily via South Pullu, where permits are checked. The stretch from South Pullu to the top can be rough, with streams and loose gravel, so start early in the morning when the road is quieter and the snowmelt is lower.

Yes — the pass top has a small army-run tea point serving hot tea and instant noodles, a souvenir shop that bills itself as one of the highest in the world, a cafeteria, toilets, and the famous signboard everyone photographs. Facilities are basic and weather-dependent, so carry your own water and snacks as backup.

Both work well. Motorcycling over Khardung La is a bucket-list ride, but ride only if you are already acclimatised to Leh (2-3 nights minimum), have cold-weather riding gear, and are comfortable on gravel and water crossings. A car or shared taxi is warmer, safer in bad weather, and better if you are travelling with family. Self-ride rental bikes from Leh are allowed for Nubra with the correct permit.

Yes, a Leh to Khardung La and back day trip is very popular and takes about half a day. However, most travellers cross the pass en route to Nubra Valley (Diskit, Hunder) and stay overnight there, which makes better use of the permit. Do the pass only after at least two days of acclimatisation in Leh.